Amontillado sherry is a fascinating wine that artfully bridges the world of biologically aged wines (such as fino and manzanilla) and fully oxidized styles. With a unique and balanced dual-aging process, amontillado offers a complex profile that both surprises and delights the palate. In this post, we explore what is amontillado, how amontillado is made, and why this style of wine stands apart in a category of already amazing and surprising wines.
DISTINGUISHING AMONTILLADO FROM OTHER SHERRIES
Amontillado sherry begins life like a fino—produced from palomino grapes and initially aged under a protective veil of “flor” yeast. However, once the delicate “flor” naturally dwindles or is intentionally removed through fortification, the wine embarks on a journey of oxidative aging. This transition results in a sherry that marries the light, saline freshness of a fino with the more intense, umami characteristics of an oxidatively aged wine. Its unique evolution leads to a complexity of sensations that makes it a wine difficult to replicate.
Learn more about fortification and fortified wines here:
THE ORIGIN OF THE NAME “AMONTILLADO”
The term “amontillado” originates from the Spanish phrase “de Montilla,” which literally means “from Montilla,” referring to the town of Montilla in Andalusia, Spain. This region became renowned in Jerez for sourcing wine that underwent biological aging and later oxidative (during its transportation to the Jerez region)—creating a wine with a richer, darker profile than the crisp, light finos and manzanilla . Over time, the original designation evolved phonetically into “amontillado,” symbolizing not only the wine’s geographic heritage but also its transformation in character and complexity. This etymological journey reflects centuries of Spanish winemaking tradition and the enduring influence of regional identity on the language of wine.
Although this image does not represent a wine transportation from Montilla to Jerez, it could perfectly illustrate the journey casks experienced in the old days.
WHAT DOES AMONTILLADO SYMBOL COME FROM?
Beyond its name, amontillado is often identified with a certain symbol in the cellar. Traditionally, barrels containing young palomino wine that began their life under a “flor” were marked for fino production. When a particular cask of already aged fino is deliberately halted by increased fortification or natural evolution, the cellar master represents the change—marking the barrel to indicate its gradual change to amontillado. This act not only guides the upcoming aging process for that fino but also encapsulates the wine’s transition from a light, biologically aged sherry to one with a more profound oxidative character.
THE WINEMAKING PROCESS FOR AMONTILLADO
The elaboration of Amontillado is a long process that masterfully blends two distinct aging stages, demanding both precision and expertise. From the deliberate selection of young wine to the dual-stage aging in the solera system, each step is critical in sculpting a wine that balances the fresh, saline nuances of its early life with the rich, nutty complexity acquired through oxidation.
GRAPE SELECTION AND INITIAL FERMENTATION
Like other dry wines from the Jerez region, amontillado is exclusively made from free run palomino grape must (“mosto yema”), a variety known for its immense versatility (hence the diversity of dry sherry wines expressions) and ability to express terroir. Palomino produces delicate yet versatile base wines offering a vast and diverse spectrum of personalities, identities.
Palomino is generally harvested in the middle of summer. After a gentle pressing with a light contact with grape’s skins the juice (known as segundo pie) undergoes fermentation, typically in stainless steel tanks, resulting in a dry, light white wine with an alcohol content of around 11-12% Abv.
BIOLOGICAL AGING UNDER “FLOR”
Once fermentation is complete, a critical step begins: biological aging under “flor”. The wine is fortified to approximately 15–15.5% alcohol, a level that encourages the growth of “flor” yeast—the genuine, indigenous microorganism that forms a protective layer over the wine’s surface. This “flor” not only shields the wine from oxygen but also transforms it, imparting distinctive nutty, bready aromas and subtle saline notes. During this phase, the wine’s character is delicately but thoroughly shaped, capturing the essence of its youthful freshness.
FORTIFICATION AND THE TRANSITION TO OXIDATIVE AGINGO
Fortification and the Transition to Oxidative Aging
The radiance of amontillado sherry occurs when the “flor” ceases to thrive. Whether this is a natural process (requiring around 7 to 8 years) or a deliberate intervention by the cellar master, the disappearance of “flor” marks a pivotal moment in the wine’s life. This additional fortification transitions the wine from a protected biological environment into one that welcomes oxidation, setting the stage for deeper flavor development.
OXIDATIVE AGING IN THE SOLERA SYSTEM
Following fortification, the wine re-enters the solera system— the dynamic aging method created in the DO centuries ago. Younger wines are progressively blended with older ones, ensuring consistency and complexity unparalleled to the rest of the wine world. This stage can extend for several years, with the length of aging significantly influencing the wine’s depth and peronsality.
FINAL CLASSIFICATION AND BOTTLING
concentration, balance, acidity and complexity before bottling. Some oloroso may be sweetened with a few drops of pedro ximénez to create a brand new style and personality (medium). Some others retain its bold, dual character, being eventually bottled unblended. The finished amontillado is bottled with minimal or no filtration and treatment, to preserve its unique character and respect the genuineness of its identity.
KEY CHARACTERISTICS AND FLAVOR PROFILE OF AMONTILLADO
AROMAS, TASTING NOTES, AND MOUTHFEEL
Amontillado is celebrated for its dual personality. On the nose, you may detect notes of toasted hazelnuts, and toffee, interlaced with hints of citrus and delicate cookie dough. However, on the palate, the wine presents a beautifully balanced contrast—dry, with a yeasty mouthfeel and a long, elegant finish that lingers with salted caramel and smoky wood. This interplay of flavors makes this style a wine of both diveristy and intensity.
COMPARING OLOROSO TO OLOROSO AND PALO CORTADO
When it comes to comparing dry oxidative sherry styles, amontillado occupies a unique middle ground. Unlike oloroso, which is fully oxidized and typically richer and more robust, amontillado retains some of the crisp, saline qualities of a fino while introducing layers of oxidative complexity. Similarly, while palo cortado sherry also transitions from a fino-like beginning to oxidative aging, its evolution is more unpredictable. Amontillado, in contrast, is a refined example of controlled oxidation.
Palo cortado is an enigmatic style that bridges the gap between amontillado and oloroso, combining the aromatic finesse of amontillado with the robust body of oloroso, creating a style that’s both elegant and powerful.
Unlike amontillado, oloroso comes from a more structured wine base (segundo pie, or second press) and bypasses biological aging entirely, aging oxidatively from the start and acquiring a very deep, structured yet aromatic personality.
LUSTAU AMONTILLADO COLLECTION
Lustau is respected for its diverse and versatile range of styles organized in different collections designed under certain concepts, profiles; suited for any palate. Lustau Amontillado collection explores different expressions of this dual-aged wine, showcasing variations in aging, locations, and complexity.
Despite all expressions are defined by Lustau’s accessible style each bottling provides different insights into the craftsmanship behind amontillado style and its evolving character over time.
Lustau Amontillado Escuadrilla
Lustau Almacenista Manuel Cuevas Jurado Amontillado de Sanlúcar
Lustau Almacenista José Luis González Obregón Amontillado del Puerto
Lustau Almacenista Antonio Caballero y Sobrinos Amontillado del Castillo
FOOD PAIRINGS AND SERVING SUGGESTIONS FOR AMONTILLADO
PAIRINGS & CULINARY APPLICATIONS
Amontillado’s adaptable expressiveness extends beyond the dining table or the cocktail glass, making it a perfect wine for a variety of occasions and moods. Its unparalleled contrast between aromas and flavors, versatility and liveliness allows it to shine as a sophisticated wine to pair with spicy cuisine or the base ingredient in a low abv cocktail version like the Adonis. Ideal for both social/ intimate gatherings, fun moments, or even as a pairing with music—think new flamenco (fusion), R&B, tango or electro jazz—it invites you to explore its genuineness in any context.
Whether savoring it with food, enjoying it as part of a self-crafted cocktail, or sipping it during a quiet evening of watching your favorite show, amontillado transforms every moment into an experience of refined indulgence.
And for those looking to explore creative and unexpected pairings, discover how Lustau Amontillado collection create a twist in sensations with everyday dishes (or some other more suited to a self-treat) with these inspiring combinations. Click on the visuals to discover more about the pairing and cocktail ideas!
